CWM deputy managing editor Kelly Andrews spent two nights living la dolce vita at Villa LaMassa in the breathtaking Tuscan countryside
Built in the 13th century as an enchanting country house for an aristocratic Florentine family, Villa La Massa was owned by European nobility until 1948, when it was transformed into a luxury hotel. After a complete renovation, it reopened and its 100-year-old history lives on with every nook telling tales of Renaissance splendour and the lifestyle of Florentine high society. It's here that I spent two memorable nights in October, ready to discover what Tuscany and its crown jewel, Florence, have to offer honeymooners.
"This tranquil and utterly beautiful spot offers visitors the very best of Italy."
Perched proudly on the banks of the Arno River just 15 minutes outside of Florence city centre by road, Villa La Massa at once feels worlds away. With architecture and scenery that could be lifted straight from the most picturesque of Tuscan postcards, this tranquil and utterly beautiful spot offers visitors the very best of Italy. The property's 25 acres of parkland, and beyond that lush Tuscan countryside as far as the eye can see, leave you safely ensconced in your own corner of heaven on earth. The site even boasts its own olive tree grove, which produces Villa La Massa's very own and highly recommended olive oil.
The accommodation is wonderfully varied here from elegant double deluxe rooms furnished in typical Florentine aristocracy country house style, to suites such as the Arno Suite with its private garden and terrace directly overlooking the river, its namesake. Part of the Leading Hotels of the World group the hotel has long been favoured by the great and the good, and indeed it's here in the Arno Suite that David Bowie honeymooned with Iman, having tied the knot in the Villa's historical onsite chapel. Even today, the Suite is one of the hotel's most popular among its honeymooners.
I was privileged to stay in Casa Colonica, one of two private villas on the grounds. Completely renovated in 2018 but dating back to the mid 1800s it's located at the entrance of Villa La Massa and contains four new suites, the décor of which is classically Tuscan. The moment I unlocked the door and ascended the stone steps my breath was taken away by the sheer footprint of the suite. The living room with its grand fireplace and two sofas lies to the right of the landing, while the sumptuous bedroom with unbelievably comfortable king-size bed could be found to the left, along with the spacious, luxurious bathroom. The oval wet room complete with bench and rainfall shower, was exactly the ticket after a day spent exploring Florence in the searing heat. More on that later!
The highlight for me, you'll see I'm a creature of simple pleasures, was the turn-down service. When I returned from dinner the first night, I must confess to naively thinking I'd been robbed! The lights were on (I didn't leave them on), the interior doors and shutters were pulled to (they were open when I left) and the towels had been neatly folded next to the sink and placed on the floor for my feet. It wasn't until I discovered a little box of chocolates on my pillow, the bed turned down and my clothes folded that the penny truly dropped – this would have been one very kind thief indeed! A real treat and entirely indicative of the myriad of ways in which the hotel's team ensures its guests want for absolutely nothing.
"An absolute joy for the taste buds"
Tuscany is a region known for its food and wine, and the gastronomic delights at Villa La Massa won't disappoint. On my first night I was lucky enough to experience a Signature Cocktail Class at Bar Mediceo courtesy of charming award-winning mixologist Alessio Baneschi. We learned the history of the Italian classic, Negroni, invented in Florence around 1920, and got to sample Alessio's incredible signature version. I defy you to spend any amount of time here and not feel the need to work your way through the entire menu of cocktails created especially for Villa La Massa and inspired by the region. I would have done my darnedest to achieve this feat, however I very quickly became hooked on 24 Giugno (24th June) inspired by the Florentine feast of its patron San Giovanni. It contained Pisco Tabernero, walnut syrup, lemon juice and walnut bitter – take it from me, it's to die for!
Feeling suitably warmed from the spirits, I was excited to make my way down to the Wine Cellar in The Mill beneath Il Verrocchio Restaurant for a private Tuscan dinner with wine pairings by Villa La Massa's sommelier. These experiences are available on request and can be personalised according to your tastes. What a romantic treat for the two of you!
Located as it is in the heart of the Chianti Rufina wine region the wine cellar here is bursting at the seams with a vast selection of fine Tuscan vintages as well as top choices from elsewhere in Italy. Each dish served by candlelight was accompanied by a glass of the country's finest fare, an absolute joy for the taste buds, as well as a fascinating education on Italian wine production. And as far as I'm concerned, a trip to my favourite corner of Europe wouldn't be complete without tiramisu for dessert. Happily, to round out the cellar dining experience, the chef served us this favourite, made to his mother's well-guarded recipe. We couldn't get it out of him, try as we might.
The other gastro highlight here is L'Oliveto Bistrot situated in a charming renovated stone barn alongside the pool. Having enjoyed both lunch and dinner here during my stay, I can confidently tell you it's not to be missed. With executive chef Stefano Ballarino at the helm the menu is a riot of fresh light flavours and colour. The Florentine fried coccoli were a total revelation. I was encouraged to try pappa al pomodoro too and despite it being something I'd never have chosen if left to my own devices, can say I'd be actively seeking it out when in Tuscany again. And the pizzas... chef's kiss!
Once you've tasted the incredible focaccia here you may well be left wondering how to recreate it at home. So, it's with some impressive foresight that L'Oliveto Bistrot invites guests to don an apron and take part in a cooking class, delving deeper into the ingredients and techniques behind its world-class pizzas and focaccias. Lead by Chef Stefano, I had a whale of a time making my own dough and proudly enjoyed the fruits of my labour for lunch.
"Everywhere you turn there's an iconic treasure or historic landmark."
From various personalised experiences to relaxing in the Arno Spa or taking a dip in the sublime outdoor pool, there's plenty to enjoy within the grounds of Villa La Massa itself. But should you manage to tear yourself away, and I highly recommend you do, at least for some of the time, there's much to discover within a short drive.
Day one I was giddy at the prospect of visiting Florence, a long-held dream of mine. I set off on a guided walking tour of the city having been dropped off in a convenient location by the hotel's shuttle bus. This is the perfect introduction to Firenze, allowing you to get your bearings and compile a mental note of where to return for a deeper dive. With a keen interest in Renaissance art and having recently rewatched the TV series Medici on Netflix, I was in full fangirl mode! Everywhere you turn there's an iconic treasure or historic landmark: Ponte Vecchio, Palazzo Pitti, Santa Maria Novella, Piazzale degli Uffizi, Ghiberti's Gates of Paradise at St John's Baptistry, and of course, Il Duomo. At times it's overwhelming to think about the great footsteps you're walking in.
Along with these world-famous locations, I was also taken off the beaten track to secret spots known more to the locals (shhh don't tell anyone). Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella (https://uk.smnovella.com), tucked away close to the church of the same name, is a perfumery with its roots traceable as far back as 1221. Founded as a Dominican friar's convent, it's renowned for its early role in the formulation of perfumes and remedies. Plus, gelato fans won't want to miss Gelateria Santa Trinita (http://www.gelateriasantatrinita.it/en), a local favourite facing the Santa Trinita Bridge. Indeed, an ice cream pit stop will likely be most welcome in the scorching summer heat!
When you're ready for a break from the hustle and bustle of the city, do pay a visit to Estate Guicciardini Strozzi (www.guicciardinistrozzi.it/en). Fifteen of the Estate's 530 hectares have been enclosed into protected natural truffle ground as some of the richest land for the valuable delicacy to grow with soil composed of sand and clay, along with a humid microclimate. Several experiences are available to book and I was off on a truffle-hunting expedition with one of the landowners herself, Princess Natalia Strozzi, direct descendent of the real Mona Lisa, Lisa Gherardini del Giocondo. Macchie (which translates as Spots) the incredibly clever truffle-hunting dog, whose mercy we were truly at, was on top form that day and we returned with an impressive haul of just over 133g of white truffle. The afternoon brought with it a fascinating tour of the Guicciardini Strozzi winery, which culminated in a totally indulgent truffle and wine tasting session. I fell in love with the Vin Santo and have been dreaming of it ever since, as I have all of my Tuscan adventures.
FIND OUT MORE If culture, history, art, gastronomy, wine and the Italian dream speak to the two of you, Tuscany is your ultimate honeymoon hotspot. Via della Massa 24, Candeli 50012 Firenze www.villalamassa.com (+39) 055 626 11 info@villalamassa.it Florence Airport, Peretola (FLR) or Pisa International Airport (PSA)
