space below the neon signs and washing line cables. Bangkok is also renowned for its spectacular rooftop bars and lounges. As a special treat, I headed over to one of its best, Sky Bar at lebua, made famous by Hollywood movie The Hangover Part II. Afterwards, I sat down for a meal at Breeze on the 52nd floor looking over the city’s skyline. Acclaimed Chef Sam Lee and his staff are redefining the Chinese dining experience, and the five-course taster menu of pan-seared Hokkaido scallop, simmered Shanghai duck, wokfried grouper, Wagyu beef tenderloin and chocolate banana was one of the best culinary experiences I can remember, perfect for couples on their honeymoon or celebrating a special occasion. The following day, leaving vibrant Bangkok behind, I took a two-hour ride down the Gulf of Thailand coast to the city of Pattaya. My next hotel was another of the properties belonging to the ONYX Hospitality Group, the fivestar beachfront Amari Pattaya. Again, the food here was spectacular. The breakfast selection in Amaya Food Gallery is ginormous, while the pork fried rice lunch was delectable. A cocktail in the Club Napha Executive Lounge on the 19th floor, was followed by a seafood pizza, as good as any I’ve tasted in the Mediterranean, at Italian restaurant Prego. Throughout the day, there is plenty to do at the family-friendly Amari Pattaya, with adults lounging by the pool or popping into maai spa for a romantic couples’ massage, while the young ones burn off energy in the mini water park or Tree House Kids’ Club. Outside the hotel, I found the Pattaya seafront much easier to navigate than the concrete jungle of Bangkok. Most of the city’s bars and restaurants are situated down Beach Road, or just off it, and there is a lovely paved promenade to walk down day or night. I’d heard all about Pattaya’s notorious nightlife before arriving and it didn’t disappoint. It was easy to embark on a Pattaya bar crawl, and I often found myself on a bar stool looking out onto the street, sharing a few beers with whoever I happened to drop on. And guess what, everyone had smiles on their faces. During the days, I took a steady walk up to the Sanctuary of Truth, and jumped in a Grab to Ocean Marina Yacht Club ahead of a three-island cruise on board Once Yachting’s lavish vessel The Chateau. Over the space of eight hours, I joined Brandon from Pittsburgh and his Bolivian girlfriend Maria Andrea for a snorkel around Koh Bamboo Island, a spot of fishing off Rin Island and the aforementioned feeding encounter with the grinning monkeys of Koh Ped. Following a few busy days and late nights in Bangkok and Pattaya, I was grateful for the serenity provided by an ocean view room at Amari Bangsaen, about an hour’s drive back up the coast. After a couple of hours by the pool and a massage treatment at Breeze Spa courtesy of therapist Jay, my batteries were well and truly recharged. As with the previous two hotels, you’re spoilt for choice when it comes to food and drink at Amari Bangsaen. I was treated to a Phad Thai lunch with mayongchid smoothie at Aloha Beach Café, and devoured another Amaya Food Gallery speciality – a hollowed out coconut filled with fried rice and prawns – in the evening. The town of Bangsaen is an authentic Thai seaside destination which is home to students from the nearby university during the week and a local tourist trap on the weekend. I witnessed their annual kite festival, and took a stroll to the fascinating Wang Saen Suk Monastery Garden, aka the ‘Hell and Heaven Temple’. Here, you have the choice of meeting hundreds of terrifying painted figures depicting gruesome punishments, or a visiting beautiful pagoda with smiling statues portraying a blissful existence. For me, the latter seemed most fitting for Thailand. My latest visit to the country, taking in three very different destinations, confirmed it is one of the happiest places on Earth. The local people, holidaymakers, monkeys, monitor lizards and statues make everyone feel welcome in the Land of Smiles. FIND OUT MORE Oriental Residence Bangkok, oriental-residence.com Amari Pattaya, amari.com/pattaya Amari Bangsaen, amari.com/bangsaen Airport: Suvarnabhumi Airport (BKK) Tourist board: fanclubthailand.co.uk 88
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