MYTH BUSTING: IS YOUR FAVOURITE INGREDIENT A LIE? “There are a lot of ingredients out there, that are amazing, but massively oversold,” Debbie shares. “The industry doesn’t tell us the full story. For a lot of these popular ingredients, context matters.” For example, hyaluronic acid comes in many different weights, and the molecular weight is what’s important when it comes to topical applications. There are so many products out there now from £5 to £250 – “I haven’t tried a £250 product that’s been worth the money,” Debbie says. “If the hyaluronic acid molecules are too big, they sit near the surface of the skin and don’t penetrate deep enough. If your barrier is compromised and you’re using a high weight molecular hyaluronic acid, you’re actually going to dry out your skin not hydrate it.” So, you need a multiweight or low-weight molecule. Niacinamide is great in two to five per cent concentration. It calms, soothes, helps to balance oil secretions and supports the barrier. “But we’re starting to see formulations with 20 per cent niacinamide. This is going to be irritating for a lot of people, you’re losing your clinical benefit and heading into irritation – the opposite of what we want niacinamide to do. Formulation matters,” Debbie explains. Parabens have been vilified for many years. “The reality is though, if you don’t have a good preservative in your skincare product, it’s going to be way more dangerous than a paraben will ever be,” Debbie tells us. “The level of parabens you’d have to have in your body would be exponential compared to the benefits you get from the very tiny amounts used. So, context matters.” Take this food for thought: the EU regulations for skin care are stricter than the food industry! WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW “Percentage doesn’t tell the whole story,” Debbie shares. “How they’re extracted and processed, and the delivery system will mean you get a better result from a one per cent high-quality active, than from a 10 per cent poor-quality active.” One ingredient isn’t a solo act – your skin wants an orchestra. “Your skin has so many different functions with a lot going on. We need to support all of it, so it works in harmony, supporting the whole organ,” she continues. “Actives are instructions, not instant transformations.” You wouldn’t go to the gym once and expect a six pack! It takes time, repetition, and consistency. “Skin care isn’t makeup, you’re not covering up, you’re rebuilding it,” Debbie explains. “You need to be patient, and you need to be consistent.” The better your skin gets, the less dramatic the progress looks, and that’s the goal, according to Debbie. “Everyone wants to see a big transformation with a new product. But if your skin is great, you’re only going to see visibly small results. What’s happening underneath is a slowing of negatives emerging that could affect your skin. It’s maintenance, not a transformation. Your skin can only go to where it will naturally go.” THE UNIVERSAL RANGE The resulting range includes the Everyday Complex, Overnight Complex and a Cleansing Gelee and benefits multiple skin concerns. All-in-all they contain more than 24 high-purity actives working in harmony with each other. The latter is something you’ll struggle to achieve if you’re mixing your own products at home. Find out more at cellis.com BEAUTY INTERVIEW 91
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